A week ago, Baoqing County in Heilongjiang was listed on Douyin’s hot search as “the earliest place in China”.
Under the lens of the creator “Yu Chunhua’s Home”, countless people from other provinces learned for the first time that in summer, this Heilongjiang far away in the sky, the latest dark time is actually at 8 pm, and the sunrise Will show up on time at two in the morning.
In fact, the reason why Heilongjiang has a difference in day length due to its location in different dimensions and has gained attention for a short time is that compared with winter, summer in Northeast China does not have a high sense of existence in the eyes of people from other provinces.
People from other provinces’ cognition of the Great Northeast seem to be stuck in the winter when the sky is full of snow and Kaikai flower shirts, while listening to the tacky Erren Zhuan, while eating popsicles and small barbecues.
But such an outsider’s view of Heilongjiang must be incomplete.
There is a question on Zhihu: How to describe the size of Harbin without bragging? The answer at the bottom is “The general jurisdiction of Harbin is not very big, only 53,100 square kilometers.”
In other words, apart from the municipality directly under the Central Government of Chongqing, Harbin is the capital city with the largest area under its jurisdiction. It is about half the size of Zhejiang Province, Jiangsu Province, 1/4 the size of Hunan Province, 2 more than Changchun, 3 more than Beijing, and 4 Shenyang. big.
Unlike some areas with large land and sparsely populated areas, Harbin not only has a large land area, but also has a permanent population of more than nine million. According to the “Statistical Bulletin on National Economic and Social Development of Harbin in 2021”, the permanent population of the city at the end of the year was 9.885 million.
Looking back in time, the resident population of Harbin even reached more than 10 million at the peak. In line with the saying “Where are the people, there is a rich and colorful culture”, if you want to understand Heilongjiang, you have to look at Harbin.
Data source: China Economic Data
1. Living alone in a corner, full of popularity
Although not the largest city in China, Harbin is definitely the most densely populated extremely cold city in China.
However, Harbin is a city with a clear label. Apart from the cold, there are Oufan, barbecue, ice and snow, Russian style and so on.
The most important thing is that if you don’t eat a barbecue in Harbin, you can’t understand that they will take the barbecue culture to another level.
In Harbin, you can’t even imagine what kind of experience it would be like to open the two floors of Nuo Da’s barbecue restaurant. People queuing up filled the hall, and diners are hungry and clamoring to ask for a seat. You can enjoy the handsome men and beautiful women while eating barbecue. The passionate performance brought, the key is to give a lot of food when you sit on the table, and the per capita consumption is only 40 yuan.
Speaking of passionate performances, if you are interested, you can come to Harbin Songhua River and Central Street after a full meal to take a look and see how those elderly and gray-haired grandparents play “Lullaby” with saxophone “, how to play “An Evening in the Suburbs of Moscow” on the accordion.
The music in the evening and the wild tour of Sun Island are the repertoire of Harbin people in summer.
Source: Little Red Book “Cosimo”
Sometimes it’s not even just on Central Avenue and the Songhua River, you can find a few pavilions in the park in summer afternoons, and there will be a few old men and women chatting and playing erhu there.
As the sun goes down, more and more men, women and children will gather on the streets, and men and women will dance in the open space of the square with melodious dance music.
Even in the pink sunset of Harbin in the evening, passing by a small shop selling gloves, mops, hardware and other labor insurance products next to Baroque in Daowai District, you can always hear the nice accordion sound coming from the dilapidated labor insurance shop.
Image source: Xiaohongshu “Peach crisp is very crisp”
Here not only realizes the coexistence of Chinese and foreign music, but also performs “romantic has not disappeared” all the time.
Don’t be surprised if you see vendors playing accordions, saxophones, erhus, and flutes in various stalls, because these objects and music are the romantic feelings of Harbin people.
It is also because the cold winter is long enough, so Harbin people will try their best to enjoy the summer in the short summer.
To a certain extent, this also indirectly created the attitude of Harbin people towards life. It probably means that even if they feel very helpless at the bottom of the GDP from time to time, it will not affect them to spend most of the remaining time to enjoy themselves in time. .
Of course, part of the source of happiness for Harbin people also comes from the urban environment full of romantic aesthetics.
The visitor’s first perspective must be on the KFC with the green roof of the Red Army Street Army. Because walking out of Harbin Railway Station, passing through the small square in front of the station, and heading straight to a road, is the Red Army Street.
Image source: Xiaohongshu “goercgo”
From the perspective of comparing national buildings, it is completely different from most of the country’s black, white and gray. The most typical color of buildings in Harbin is army green. The whole city likes to use army green, from small restaurant tablecloths to large buildings.
It can be said that Harbin is a very “heterogeneous” existence in the rural world of big black and white, big red and big green in the north.
2. The aesthetic background of this small town
There are more than a dozen buildings like “KFC” on Hongjun Street. As the parent city of Harbin, each of these exquisite small western-style buildings bears a long list of compelling architectural titles, but most of them are churches.
For example, St. Sophia Church, St. Alexeyev Church, St. Evel Church, Hallelujah Church, Hulan Catholic Church, Harbin Catholic Church, Our Lady of the Guardian Church and so on.
Combined with small buildings scattered in every corner, ancient Greek, Gothic, Byzantine, Baroque and other styles of buildings are located row upon row on the famous Central Street in the city center.
Being on Central Street is like visiting an architectural exposition in person. They have different shapes and styles; they have multiple functions and radiant brilliance.
However, it is a pity that some exquisite buildings still undertake corresponding functions, such as Harbin Pharmaceutical No. 6 Factory. The other part, such as the old building sites in Daowai District, has long been lost in the evolution of history.
The division of Daoli District and Daowai District in Harbin is very cultural.
Daoli and Daowai are separated by a Middle East Railway. Daoli District used to be the residential area of foreigners and Tsarist Russia, while the people living in Laodaowai are the most authentic Chinese people.
If you take a closer look, you can see that the difference from inside the road is that the small buildings outside the old road are more Chinese-style, and the old street still exudes a strong atmosphere of the market because of the bazaar.
The only thing that remains unchanged is that many “Western” cultures such as playing the accordion, eating cold meals, outings, skating, etc. have long been tempered into the life muscles and bones of the Laodaowai, and the local natural erhu, Errenzhuan, sugar-fried chestnuts, three Eight popsicles, Goubuli buns, Hongguang wontons, frozen persimmons and other “Northeast culture” are mixed together.
If these small buildings carrying history and rich and colorful culture can be left behind, Harbin will be a vivid history textbook.
Speaking of Lao Daowai, I have seen countless Harbin people, and I tried my best to prove the beauty of my hometown under the posts about Harbin. The most impressive thing is:
“Harbin is really beautiful, but can you not always write about the Northeast as very dark and make people feel lazy? Can you write about the sun so that those of us who stay in the Northeast can see hope.”
In fact, the self-confidence of hometown never needs anyone to give, because Harbin’s unique and solid cultural heritage, as well as its unique urban style, have never been defined by anyone.
Just by seeing Harbin Institute of Technology’s school motto of “Strict Specifications, Kung Fu at home”, you can feel the charming and pragmatic temperament of the old 985 in a down-to-earth manner.
If you spend a little more time and go to the Harbin Grand Theater to watch a drama, you can really feel that the difference from the movie is that the form of Harbin drama, Chinese lines, Chinese elements, props expressiveness, lines skills, etc. bring sensory impact.
If you want to find happiness, how can you not go to the traditional local opera in Harbin – Erren Zhuan, an absurd comedy?
The sense of joy of the Northeast people is vividly displayed in Erren Zhuan. There is no need to be afraid of being boring. The whole show is unique. Just telling jokes and teasing people can make the audience laugh.
If Henan opera is the spiritual pillar of Henan people, then Errenzhuan must be the spiritual life of the Northeast region. But on the land of China, the cultural spirit is always dynamic, changing with the times.
3. When you come to Harbin, how can you not listen to Errenzhuan?
The current Errenzhuan is different from the positive content of local operas in the past, as well as the essence of the singing of traditional operas. At first, the Errenzhuan was limited to nasty jokes, but after the market reform, it gradually developed into various ridiculous jokes.
For example, the performance form of Errenzhuan today, a man and a woman dressed in bright red and purple, winking and making all kinds of exaggerated expressions on the stage, often performing mouth slaps, doing splits, pretending to be animals, chatting with each other through dialogues, full of various Dirty jokes.
The songs sung in the process are not traditional songs, but popular songs adapted to the moment. Finally, follow the usual procedure and exit amidst the enthusiastic applause of the audience.
In fact, the original Northeast Errenzhuan was not like this. The original Errenzhuan was not much different from operas in other parts of China in terms of singing, opera lyrics, costumes or props. Happy.
Take Errenzhuan’s classic play “The Great Western Chamber” as an example. In the past, the actors would have to sing more than a thousand lines in one go, and the professionalism in it is as professional as any other local opera.
From the point of view of the form of performance, although today’s Errenzhuan is far from the original “big set of costs”, but a detailed understanding of the development and changes of Heilongjiang Errenzhuan will reveal that Errenzhuan is a microcosm of the cultural sinking of industrial cities.
The earliest Errenzhuan appeared in the 1950s. In order to meet the needs of local spiritual life, a self-contained Errenzhuan system began to appear. Some areas have also begun to establish local theater troupes, specializing in Errenzhuan performances.
Affected by this, in order to meet the spiritual life of the Northeast people who live in winter six months a year, the original immature local operas have also begun to be consciously sorted out.
It can be understood that the original Errenzhuan is actually divided into two categories, one is pure mouth, which is performed in teahouses and other places, and the other is meat mouth, which is performed for ordinary people in places such as Tianqiao.
However, as a local drama, Errenzhuan, which has a “big set of costs”, did not have the luck to go international. With the changes of the times, the demand gradually weakened.
In order to survive, the later Errenzhuan only left the “people’s demand” kind of meat, which also caused the current Errenzhuan to be like a certain Errenzhuan actor said, “Brother, we don’t want to talk about this, but I have fifty cents left in my pocket.” up”.
In fact, there have been many sketch actors in the past, trying to help the duo into the elegant hall, but the current results are obvious-none of them are ideal. The biggest reason behind this is that nowadays people don’t have much affection for the art form of Errenzhuan.
Not to mention the audience who are in love with traditional artistic styles such as Xiaoquer and Xiaomaoer. To put it bluntly, the traditional Errenzhuan is more like a form of entertainment for the working people. At the moment when short videos are popular, trying to save the “lost” “cost package” has its own costs and risks.
This point, Harbin “Liu Laogen Grand Stage” is actually well aware of it.
To a certain extent, it is precisely because of its “inauthentic” that Errenzhuan has a way to survive, and its vitality is relatively more vigorous. Being put on the shelf is not necessarily a good thing if there is no audience.
With the passage of time, the status of the highly dramatic Errenzhuan may become an art that only existed in the dictionary. It may be difficult for the current meaty Errenzhuan to be “liked” by the people of the whole country in the future purely based on the needs of the people. “.
But as far as the moment is concerned, the meat and meat duo is the only local opera that still survives on the stage outside of Peking opera.